Sekine Factory Photos

It doesn't get much better than this: Photos from a visit to the Sekine Factory in February, 1978. Until now, I'd only seen a few shots of the factory, most often in blurry black and white. Gold like these photos keeps me searching for more.

View the Full Album here.

Thanks to BrownGW and his sales/ distributor friend (source) and Bike Fanatic (scanning) for these slides. Here's the Bike Forums Thread where this started. If anyone else has old Sekine factory photos, I'd love to see them.

Room for One More

It's been a few years since my last post, but I'll always be interested in anything related to Sekine Bicycles that comes to light. Over the next few months, I'd like to pick up a little where I left off, and post some of the stuff that I've gathered since the Sekine Zine was published.

Back when I was putting together the Sekine zine, I lived in Vancouver, and used to search Craigslist postings constantly. I even started looking at listings from other provinces. There were, as you might expect, dozens of old ten-speeds posted across the prairies, lots in Ontario, and a few in Quebec. Most of them were the low to mid-range bikes, quite used or modified, and often overpriced (see my related post, What's it Worth?)

Once in a while, I'd find someone selling real gold- a completely original bike pulled from the storage shed where it sat for 30 years. Or a bike, claimed to be still in the original box from the factory. Or, a top of the line PR-10 "professional racer" model like this one:

Peter's PR-10. Dura-Ace components, beautiful paint, lightweight Tange Champion butted tubeset.

If it was my size, it would be hanging on my wall right now.

By far, the most interesting bike I ever saw in the used listings was completely unexpected: A Sekine tandem. I didn't believe it at first, and to this day it's a bit of a mystery (like most things Sekine). I think it was for sale in Edmonton, of all places, but this was four years ago.

Sekine Tandem. Custom road + mixte frames?

The "Modern" decaling looks original, and it might even have a "Medialle" head badge. The frame looks like a welder added a mixte to the end of a road bike, and used a stock fork. Parts all look stock- brakes, bars, cranks, wheels.

Front end. Stock fork and cruiser bars. I wonder if the stock Shimano Tourney center-pull brakes are capable of stopping those steel rims on a descent.

Ladies get to stoke.

This bike is still out there, in someone's garage. Have you seen it, or any other neat Sekine stuff? Let me know. In the meantime, I'll get some more posts up, and you can still get an original Sekine Zine.

Ride it if you have it

Pulled from the garage every spring, ready to go, just as you remember it from last year. Brush off the cobwebs, a spider scurries from under the seat. Put some air into those 27" tires, a quick pull of the brakes to make sure they're still solid. That old Sekine comes out every summer, paint still colourful in the sun, ready to ride down the block, to the park, around the city and beyond if you've still got the legs. Sekines are best for riding.

Sekine RM-10, probably from 1981

Spotted this nice blue Sekine RM-10 out last Sunday, just before the official start of summer. Looks like it was taken right out of the garage and ridden down the street- original parts, not too much wear. It's rare to see a head-turner, higher-end model like this, especially in such nice condition (Shimano 600 group components, nice rims, seatpost, high-end Tange fork and frame). When I see a Sekine of this quality and condition, in my size, it takes a lot of willpower not to leave a note offering to buy the bike; but I realize that the bike is usually worth more to its owner than I'm willing to pay. I imagine that I'd always like to keep a Sekine in my house, ready to ride- and luckily I do have one. I'm still commuting a couple days a week on the old, tricked-out SHS frame; red, shiny, and faster than you'd expect. Those old 27" tires sure roll smoothly, and does anyone really need more than 10 speeds? That Sekine is a sweet ride, just wish it were my size!

Also, in case you were wondering- I am still selling copies of the Sekine Zine! I never expected to sell as many as I have, and am down to my last two copies left from the previous print run. Since orders continue to trickle in, I will get more printed soon. I also continue to collect any weird Sekine ephemera or stories, and I'd still like to hear from any factory workers (or managers) out there- so don't hesitate to contact me (rod of the flies @yahoo.ca, no spaces).

DIY Decal Restoration

The Sekine promotional materials I've read brag about their multi-step paint process, and 30 years later many a frame is still "lustrous and long-lasting." The decals, however, are another matter. Applied after the final clear coating of the frame, the decals are prone to peeling or abrasion, and I've seen more than a few missing letters. The seat tube decals hold up rather well, possibly because of their larger adhesion area and minimal edges.
The main advantage, I suspect, of decals over the paint is that it speeds up the factory's production process. Applying decals below the clear coating would introduce a slower step, and possibly contamination, into the production.

I have a frame I am restoring, and the old downtube SEKINE decal was long stripped away, with faint ghost outlines remaining. But what's the point of riding a Sekine, if people don't know it's a Sekine?
Luckily, it's not hard to make a simple, lettered decal. I made a photocopy of some mint SEKINE letters to use as a stencil, and found some sticky vinyl paper to use for the decal. With some careful effort, I traced then cut out identical lettering for each side.
Cleaning the frame is a crucial step. I used some toxic-smelling solvent to help carefully dissolve any remaining old decals, and finally wiped down the frame with rubbing alcohol (which leaves no residue).
Carefully, I applied the new decals into the ghost of the old, firmly pressing down the edges to make sure they stick. Et voila! The DIY decals are quite sharp looking, and from a few feet away look factory-new.

Before and after.

The seat tube (and frame tubing material) decal would be much harder to reproduce (and more specific to the model year), and I'd have to enlist a professional print shop to make them. Which is exactly what a friend of mine did when restoring his vintage Sekine. He had more than a few sets made, and they are for sale if you're restoring a Sekine of your own. Contact for info.

There's also a shop or two making vintage decals for bicycles- but I haven't seen any Sekine decal sets yet. Velocals.com is good, with lots to offer.

Edit 5/2014:
Jim Nielsen from Vancouver has scanned the originals and re-printed sets of the Sekine downtube decals. He has a few sets for sale. Your best bet for replacements is to contact him directly via e-mail: jimbotoad (AT) shaw.ca

Eyes Always Open

Through the rainy winter months, my passion for this project dwindled a bit as I didn't see many Sekine bicycles out on the streets. My theory is that since the majority of the bikes were equipped with steel rims, they have poor brake performance (especially in the rain!), and Vancouver gets a lot of rain and has a lot of hills. Many serious commuter cyclists have also upgraded to more efficient, modern bikes- although I've seen many old Sekines filling the role of a "winter beater". I think I spotted more Sekines on Craigslist than I did outside.

Now it's summer again, and warmer weather brings out a wave of old ten-speed bikes and fair-weather riders. Pulled out of garages, storage rooms and balconies where they've been sitting for months or even decades, the old bikes re-appear in numbers increasing to match the sunny days. I find it interesting to note how many cyclists, spurred on by the recent bike movement, are riding bicycles produced during the last great bike boom.

Sekine spotting; late model RM30 converted to flat bars.

A Sekine rides by over there, and I see one parked over here. Mostly faded and scratched over decades of use, with rusty bolts and mis-matched replacement parts, the bikes wear well (although the SEKINE decals tend to peel off). I'm delighted to spot the occasional mint specimen; chrome forks and glossy paint shining in the sun, all original parts still fresh after a long slumber in the back of an attic. Shiny fenders, original kickstand, original brake pads (yikes), maybe there's even a shop sticker or an old bicycle registration tag on the frame.

Flat handle bars are a common sight on many old ten-speeds; a modification that helps make these racer-style frames (with long top-tubes) more comfortable. Only a few Sekine models came from the factory with an upright cruiser bar; these so-called "touring-style" bikes were the cheaper 5-speeds (SHL 276 & SHC 276, SIA 053 & SIA 853, MTL-35F & TM-35F).

Most of the Sekine bicycles that are actively used display more than a few modifications- years of wear take their toll, parts wear out and get replaced. Unfortunately, when it comes time to replace worn-out parts, many owners balk at repair costs and instead go shopping for a shiny new bike. Sekines are old technology, and while they're still useful, it's often true that they simply aren't good as newer bicycles.

Compared to a new bicycle, most old ten-speeds suffer from cumbersome shifting, poor braking, and are on the heavy side of the scale. But the old steel parts and frames do have a couple inherent advantages- they were simple, easily serviced, and built to last (and currently have a reto-cool appeal).
So used-bike classifieds are full of old ten-speeds; items ranging from mint to mangled. It's a real circus out there, and every summer it amazes me how much sellers are asking for used bikes (especially in Vancouver). That old Sekine might have cost $250 new, but now it's used- and over 30 years old. A mint condition model is worth more for its nostalgia than its usefulness.

Here are some general, quick tips on buying a used Sekine:
- Check out the forks; if they look bent or pushed back, the bike has been crashed. It won't steer properly, and may break.
- If the forks don't have chrome tips, it's the cheapest model.
- If it has a "Jewel" headbadge, it's an older or cheaper model.
- If the wheel rims are shiny chrome steel, the brakes will suck.
- If some amateur mechanic has put the bike together, beware.
- Almost no Sekine is worth more than $300, and for more than $150 it better have new tires and parts.

Buying a used, 'vintage' bicycle is a real buyer-beware situation. Used bikes are initially a cheaper purchase but often have hidden problems; and usually they still need work or replacement parts. If you're not familiar with the mechanics of bicycles, you're almost better off buying a new cycle from a bike shop that will take care of you and provide support and advice.
But if you love that old Sekine cycle- fix it up properly and ride it like it's 1979!

Sekine Canada's 1975 Catalogue

At last, a look at the Sekine line-up from the first years of production. An original catalogue has been delivered to my eager eyes!

Every bit of this booklet is awesome. Factory workers wearing the company's short-lived blue smocks. The lifestyle photography, set on the Manitoba prairies, features fashionably dressed couples caressing each other.  And those classic Sekine bicycles, with gleaming pie plates, chainring guards, steel rims, and reflectors. As they say in French: Bicyclette Sekine – Notre spécialité... la qualite.

I'd like to extend a heartfelt thank-you to Lorne Shields for sending me this catalogue; which I now share with all you Sekine fans out there. Click to see the entire Sekine 1975 Catalogue

Some Weights and Measures

Some geeky technical specs to start your morning.

Thanks to one of the mechanics at the Recyclistas shop in Victoria, BC for this tip. It seems Sekine bikes have an odd 70mm bottom bracket shell size; but use the common 1.37"x24TPI threading. Many older road bikes would be the ubiquitous English-standard 68mm shell, although Italian BBs were also 70mm (with a different threading).
Not sure exactly how many of the bikes used the 70mm size, but they were probably on most models, at least up to 1979. Need to check some more frames.

1974, model SHT

1977, model SHL

Some more technical information. While I had the above pictured frames stripped down, I weighed them both. Both frames have the same lugs but predictably the mixte frame, with its plain steel and extra tubes, is 2lbs heavier. Here's the numbers:
20" Sekine SHT: frame 4lb 7oz, fork 1lb 10oz (Combined 6lb 2oz)
This was Sekine's second from top-of-the-line frame. Lugged, with chromed stays and fork. Built with butted Cromoly tubing and Shimano drop-outs and fork tips.
20" Sekine SHL: frame 6lb 8oz, fork 1lb 13oz (Combined 8lb 6oz)
This was Sekine's nicest mixte racer frame. Lugged, with chrome-dipped fork. Built with Canadian-made hi-tensile tubing, stamped dropouts.

Second Printing!

I'm excited to report that the first print run of the Sekine zine has completely sold out. It was amazing to witness the stack of printed copies steadily dwindling in singles and pairs as deliveries went out the door. It's always so nice to see someone's eyes light up when they flipped through a copy, so I promptly went back to the printer to make a second batch. That fresh photocopy smell, and a new stack of folded covers!

The Sekine Zine: a bit obsessive

If you'd like to buy a zine in person, I'm happy to report that a few awesome bike shops now have copies under the counter:
- Our Community Bikes (Vancouver)
- New West Cycle (New Wesminster)
- Fairfield Bicycle Shop (Victoria)
If you know of a shop that might be interested in the Sekine zine, contact me and we'll set something up. And as usual, copies are always available directly from the order page

After "Made in Japan" but before "Made in Canada"

Still hearing about new tidbits of Sekine information and meeting people as the Project rolls along. Stay tuned for more posting in the new year!

Factory Footage

Dark and frosty outside? Get a mug of hot tea, and settle in to watch these videos. Learn about the mysterious inner workings of bicycle factories!

Here's a look at the French manufacturer Peugeot, from 1985:

It looks as though Peugeot manufactured their own tubing, forks, and even rims. Sekine's factory was much smaller and limited in scope, but used some similar processes.

From the How It's Made video series comes this episode about a bicycle factory (CCM):

Interesting because they're manufacturing plain, low-tech steel bikes, in Canada, much like Sekine did. Obviously some of the manufacturing machines are more advanced (in particular more fully automated wheel building), but it's a simple flow- frames, paint, sub-assembly, conveyor belt final assembly.

Campy chain manufacturing, from the How It's Made series:


And a look at modern, mass-production factory wheel building:

Although this factory is in China, the Sekine wheel build process was similar. Hand lacing, with an automatic machine tensioning, then final truing by hand.

Last but not least, a look at Continental bicycle tire manufacturing.

There's also a longer, very detailed Schwalbe-produced video on Youtube that's worth watching. It's interesting to think that even Canada used to have bicycle tires manufactured domestically.

Anyone else have some good links to bicycle-factory videos?

Keeps rollin' on

I'm excited to say that so far, the Sekine Project zines have sold better than expected. I'm currently working to get them into bikes stores or co-ops, to reach anyone interested in a good read. Sekine were a relatively small manufacturer, but this bicycle brand seems to possess a huge nostalgia factor for many Canadians.
I'm even more excited to acknowledge all the wonderful people I've met through this project. Recently, through my efforts at distributing the zine, I've been introduced to many more cyclists who remember Sekine and have something to share.

Nice Medialle headbage with a white fill, on this SHS 271 from 1974

Naively, I had assumed that once the zine was printed the real work would be over and the project would be finished. Seems a silly notion, in hindsight. What's happened is that with most people I meet, the zine brings out their enthusiasm for Sekine, and I hear a good story or learn something new. So the project keeps rolling on, and I'll try to keep posting interesting items on this blog.

I'm soliciting constructive comments and memories from every reader, because with a project like this, there's always something new to learn.

Now in Print!

It's finally finished! Behold the Sekine zine:

Sekine zine cover pages

After months of editing and revisions, the zine is finally printed and ready to go. An large envelope stuffed full of Sekine zines accompanied me yesterday to Canzine West. Quietly put onto the table and launched without fanfare, the zine sold well and received some very positive initial reviews.

The Sekine zine is a black-and-white, 36-page photocopied booklet that details the history of Sekine Canada Ltd. It contains more information about Sekine than you'd ever want to know, and includes photos and tidbits you won't find anywhere online. If you've ever wondered about Sekine bicycles, where or how they were made, this zine has all that information- and more.

Sekine zine inside pages

Sekine zine exclusive photos

It's not a detailed guide to specific bicycle models, as a vintage catalog accompanied by a learned eye is more accurate. The zine does, however, contain general identification pointers, a serial number guide, and an extensive reference list for further reading. Given time and a budget I would have written a book; but this zine is quite good and a lot cheaper!

Sekine zine, more inside spread

Sekine zine, more photos

The zine is available to order directly from me. Paypal is easiest, but I'd still accept old-school cash through the mail. If you have any questions or comments, please contact me (rodoftheflies AT yahoo DOT ca). Buy yours today!

Sekine Zine + Postage

In Canada $5.00 CAD To the U.S.A $5.50 CAD

The Crash

A beautiful sunny morning, clear blue skies and dry roads. We both had the day off, and it took a while to get out of the house. With fun and frivolous diversions in mind, we set off on our bikes. I was riding my fixed gear, my girlfriend was on her single speed Sekine mixte.
A block from our house, approaching a familiar four-way intersection on a stale green light, I was in the lead. Anticipating the traffic lights, I figured the girlfriend was a good distance behind me. As the light changed from green to yellow, I was nearing the crosswalk and suddenly decided to stop, rather than go through the intersection, and slammed on my front brake, skidding the rear wheel a bit.
Just coming to a stop, I had about a second's warning as I heard a noise from behind me, an "Oh shi-" WHAM! The impact pushed me and bike through the crosswalk, where I fell onto the ground. "Ahh, what the F*CK!" My girlfriend had been following more closely than I'd thought, and had just enough time to slam on the brakes before plowing into my bike's rear end.
"Owww. Dammit. Are you okay?" Four lanes of motorists looked on as we dragged our bikes off to the sidewalk. Somehow the Sekine's brake lever was snagged in my bike's rear fender, and I picked pieces of my shattered tail light off the pavement. We examined the damage.
Some fender stays got bent, but my wheels and the rest of the bike seemed fine. Let's have a look at your Sekine- uh oh.

Twin top tubes bent upward, flaking the paint. Not shown, but the fork was bent back as well.

Lower lug broken away from head tube. The lower spoon on the lug dug into the tubing, buckling it nicely.

Obviously, the Sekine is toast. Had we crashed further away, she could actually have ridden this bike home (slowly, as the fork bent far back the steering is quite wonky). Steel, as they say, is real. The material fails in a way that, to me, seems nicely predictable, obvious, and relatively safe. Fixing this frame, although technically possible, would require so much labour and new tubing that it's not a realistic option. This is actually the third crash this 30-year old frame has been through (with just its current owner) and it's time for a replacement.

So, hours later we both have some bruises and pains. The hospital x-rayed her arm, and luckily declared it unbroken. The nose of my Brooks saddle kicked me in the backside like a hammer blow. We'll heal and be a little wiser (I hope) for the experience, but this Sekine is done.

Sekine Zine Update

The Sekine Project's original goal was to find out about the company, and eventually publish a small zine with my findings. I've been working to accomplish this over the past few months.
The booklet is well underway, with a target of having printed copies in hand by mid-November. I've spent hours editing the text and photos, revising and updating. New information keeps coming my way, which delays completion but is welcome because of the more comprehensive picture provided. I've been fortunate enough to have a few really good interviews, and talk to other knowledgeable people.
The zine will be around 30 pages, with something nice for a cover. When I have them done, I'll post them up here for sale. Cost will be printing+mailing.

In the meantime, here's a photo of an original Sekine lug set; Tange lugs and Shimano dropouts.

Nice forged dropouts, stamped and welded lugs need filing to finish.

I still welcome any submissions of information and Sekine bicycle stuff. Contact me via email; rodoftheflies (this space to prevent spam) @yahoo.ca

Original Decals

The other day, I had the the pleasure of interviewing a former Sekine employee. He was most generous; in addition to his time, he gifted me a set of original Sekine decals he had kept from 1979.

Sekine Decals

Ironically, the seat tube decal itself was printed in Japan. Now I need to find a frame worth repainting.

Looking at Lugs

Let's take a closer look at that most important frame piece- lugs. Sure, lugs exist primarily to hold the frame together, but long ago frame builders realized lugs could be beautiful as well as functional. They were a chance to show off one's craftsmanship and distinguish a bicycle. Of course, mass-produced frames aren't afforded the same detailing as a custom-built, but even production lugs can have style as well as strength.

A basic socket lug with no ornamentation on a cheaper frame. Plenty strong, but heavy.

Looking at the lugs used by Sekine over the years, we see several different types. Obviously, you'll find the plain-cut socket joints used on bottom-end frames; but there's variance through the years and more expensive models. Many of the lugs resemble, at a glance, the famous Nervex lugs from France.

The famous "Continental-cut" lug appeared on thousands of Sekine's mid-70s SHT, SHS, & SHL frames. The lug features fancier cutouts, and retains its strength while reducing weight and adding aesthetic appeal.

I have yet to confirm a definite timeline for the various lugs, or reason why a switch was made. Also worth noting is that several other Japanese frame manufacturers used the same lugs as Sekine. In particular, the Nishiki (and later Norco) bicycles are nearly identical, and similar lugs are found on the lesser-known Azuki brand. It's also worth noting that there are several different types of lugs on the mixte frames; these are most noticeable on the head tube-top tube joint.

Another basic lug, yet it has some ornamentation

Sekine probably had a few suppliers for their frame materials, (for example, Shimano dropouts) but most notably Tange Industries supplied many of the lugs, and much of the steel tubing used to build the frames. Tange also made the forks for most of the Sekine bicycles.

The lugs pictured above are on frames made perhaps a year apart, around 1980. The one on the left is a cheaper frame; the lug is chunky and heavy. The frame on the right has nicer lugs, with long smooth tangs and more defined curves. I'm not sure what Sekine used for brazing material, but I'll find out soon.

RM-20 Rides Like New

I took the newly-built Sekine out on a good 40km ride across town, and boy- this bike can fly. It's amazing how fast 30-year old steel rolling on 1 1/4" rubber can go. Power transmission feels solid, even though the ride seems cushy. The steering holds a strong line, almost to the point of unresponsiveness. Somehow, it's easy to set up a quivering speed wobble in the steering; but just as easy to snap out of it. The bike climbs a bit slow, but is very stable on the descent. And despite a bit of sun-fading, that red paint still looks great.

21" x 22" triangle.

Fit is the biggest issue; but I knew when I bought the bike that it was a size small. The seat post is raised to the max height (but still 2cm too low), as is the stem; which as a result, makes the bars feel flexy, and the bike looks a bit strange. Even with a 56cm top tube, the 60mm stem makes me feel a bit compressed; I notice that when I'm in the drops, I have to scoot my butt back almost off the seat to feel comfortable. However, I can probably ride short to moderate distances with no problems, and the small size makes the bike easy to whip around. I'd prefer handlebars wider than the 39cm c-c Road Champions, but feeling narrow can be nice on the streets.

Shifting with down-tube levers took some getting used to. Always reaching down, gauging cable pull by touch while keeping eyes on the road, ears listening for trim. The rear derailleur has a little quirk which could be termed "soft shifting". As the cable is pulled, a small spring-loaded arm on the derailleur body swings into contact to make the shift. This small, initial pull gives a mushy feeling at the shifter for a moment before engagement- I think I'd prefer a straight pull. Obviously, deft shifting will only come from practice, and the system is beautifully light and simple. Also, I will apply some thread-lock compound on the shifter adjustment screws, as they kept coming loose.

The gearing surprised me with its versatility. With a big 52/42 ring up front, the bike definitely likes speed, but this is balanced by a generous 14-28 range in the back. The big ring is actually useful around the city. Climbing the hills around Vancouver's bike routes, I definitely appreciated the 28T, and can see why old Sekines sold with this range may have been popular here. Long term, I'd probably switch the 42T for a 39T ring, just to add a bit more low-end for days when I'm tired.

Braking is probably the biggest concern with this bike. Going fast is thrilling, but it's more frightening when I know the brakes have a sluggish response. As mentioned in the re-build post, the brakes are Shimano Tourney long-reach side-pull calipers, which I have tried to augment with nice road cartridge pads and compressionless housing. Stopping is still more of a gradual affair that I'd like (compared to the disc brakes I'm accustomed to), however it's probably as good as it can get. Worst of all, after initial set-up, the rear brake caliper howled a painful vibration that travels up through the frame, buzzing one's genitals unnervingly. This is a clamorous problem, and I'm attempting to quell it by experimenting with the adjustment of the brake's center pivot nut (Update: setting the pivot a bit loose made a large improvement).

New tires, saddle, and bar tape make a big improvement.

On the initial quick test ride, the chain seemed prone to skipping off the rear cogs. Closer inspection revealed that this was probably due to insufficient chain wrap, caused by a weak derailleur pivot spring. My solution was to remove the dropout spacer inserts, moving the axle to the rear of the dropouts, and further past the derailleur pivot. So far this has eliminated the problem, although giving a 1cm longer wheelbase.

Overall, the bike is fun. It's exciting to ride something I've only looked at for so long, and it's strange seeing the bike parked in the house. It's red, chromed, silver parts, and pretty. I can't wait to take it out again tomorrow.

RM-20 Rebuild

After stripping, cleaning, and rust-checking the frame, I moved to do the same with the components. Despite the Sekine's composition of a few relatively simple parts, a thorough cleaning took hours.

Dirty essentials in the parts box

The derailleurs looked the most interesting, so I started with them. A rag and screwdriver to clean off decades of accumulated grime, and a bottle of Phil Wood oil to re-lube pivots and screw threads. Repeat the procedure with the brake calipers. The crankset was pretty dirty. Pulled all the chainring bolts, and spent twenty minutes wiping old, dried-up grease from the chainrings. Some oil on the bolt threads, and it all went back together smoothly.
The wheels that came on this bike when I bought it were mismatched, and not in particularly good shape. I replaced them with some other wheels I had lying around- from another Sekine, incidentally. Araya 27x1 1/4" alloy rims, laced with 36 spokes to Shimano hubs, with some choice new Continental tires.

Shimano Altus LT derailleurs, date code EI; 1980/Sep

The re-build went rather smoothly. Packed the old steel headset with fresh grease, gave it a push and watched it twirl. The cup-and-cone bottom bracket, Takagi brand matching the cranks, was an easy overhaul. New bearings with lots of grease, shielded by an inner dust shield, spins almost like new. Throw on the matching Takagi Tourney cranks, tighten down the spindle nuts, install pedals. Add on the Shimano Altus LT derailleurs and down-tube shifters, followed by the Tourney long-reach brake calipers. Bars and stem go next, install brake levers and line them up. A nice Brooks saddle goes onto the seatpost, because I don't much like riding on anything else. Some brand-new cartridge brake pads onto the calipers, and install wheels into frame. Brake cables go into new Jagwire kevlar housing, to make those brakes feel as good as possible. A new Shimano chain to drive the machine. Then it's a matter of final touches; adjusting derailleur limit screws, cable tension, brake pad alignment, snugging down nuts and bolts. Last to go on is the bar tape, and I hum and haw over flashier colours before defaulting to the basic black.

Taking only a brief moment to step back and admire the new Sekine, I head out the door. The red machine surely looks a gem, but only a ride will tell; and that's the next post.

Model RM-20 Frame Details

The bare bones

Even before I bought my Sekine, I knew that any used bike would probably require a complete re-build. An overhaul would both ensure reliable long-term function of the bicycle, and bring it to a riding standard I'd be content with. Happily, a re-build is work that I enjoy doing, and I was eager to get into the details.

Tange 1" threaded fork, chrome-plated

Warning: bike nerd/mechanic stuff ahead!
As soon I had the chance I stripped the frame almost completely, leaving in only the press-fit headset cups and crown race. A bare frame is much easier to clean, although there were some thick streaks of hockey tape residue that required a lot of elbow grease to remove. A thorough cleaning gave me opportunity to look closely over the entire frame, and I examined where an old kickstand mount had slightly crushed the rear chainstays, and discovered a dent at the base of the downtube. Some quick sprays of Frame Saver into the 30 year old frame & fork tubes to slow any unseen rust seemed prudent.

Shimano LF dropouts, 130mm rear spacing

Frame laid bare (and leaking Rust Check) I took the opportunity to weigh it and get some photos. I present, for your Sekine-nerding enjoyment, specs for the RM-20 frame & fork:
Seat Tube: 53cm/ 21"
Top Tube: 56cm/ 22"
Chain Stays: 435mm
BB Drop: 60mm
Wheelbase: 1040mm/ 41"
Seatpost: 26.4mm
Brazed-on cable-guides and stops, DT water bottle bosses
Frame Weight (incl. steel headset cups): 5lb 10oz/ 2.56kg
Fork Weight (incl. steel headset race): 1lb 14oz/ 0.84kg (fork is chrome-plated)
I do not currently know the head/seat tube angles, nor the fork rake (anyone..?)

Inside the BB shell. Shimano cable guides brazed on top.

Prices from the Past

How much was that Sekine bicycle worth back in the day when it was new? I've managed to find a few retail prices scattered in old newspapers. Here's a listing from a Winnipeg bike shop in 1975:

SHS 270 - $250 - Deluxe cro-mo lightweight ten-speed
SHL 271 - $169 - Mixte hi-tensile lightweight ten-speed
SHC 270 - $160 - Hi-tensile lightweight ten-speed
SIA 271 - $130 - Hi-tensile
SIA 101 - $124 - Hi-tensile

Listings from previous and following years show that over time, prices climb (predictably) ever higher.
Now that we know how much they sold for back then, we can approximate what a Sekine would cost today using The Inflation Calculator. Of course, nowadays a lugged steel frame would probably cost a lot more, but you'll likely be getting a better product.
If you're buying a used bike, always subtract for wear, keep in mind the components you might have to replace, and remember that vintage does not necessarily mean good.

Joining the Owner's Club

I've never owned a Sekine of my own. I've worked on them, fixed one up for my girl, and looked at dozens of them on the streets over this past summer.
Haunted by dreams of riding my own Sekine machine, I've been browsing the used bike ads on Craigslist for the past while. The other day I finally saw something I wanted to buy, a red RM-20 lightweight:

The Sekine RM-20, with disembodied hand

Took it for a quick test ride down the street, and it seemed alright. A quick look-over to make sure there was nothing obviously wrong with the frame hinted the bike needed much work, giving me grounds to bargain down the price. The lady selling was the original owner; since buying the bike in 1981 she'd ridden it countless miles all over the west coast. I handed over a fistful of bills, and doubled off home on my new (old) Sekine.

Buyer beware, of course. As with the majority of used bikes bought off Craigslist, this one needed more than a few repairs. Some things were obvious, some weren't. Here's a list: The cables and housing (almost always) need to be replaced, handlebar foam is worn out, the chain is worn out, the tires were old and starting to crack, the rear wheel was a mis-matched 700c, the seatpost is a tad short for me, the front brake pads have hardened. Add to that all the labour required to tune this machine to my standards (basically, a full overhaul and detailing). Despite all this, I think I paid a fair price, and got a nice little bonus out of the deal (post to come later!).

It's mine to work on now, mine to ride and obsess over. My first Sekine!

Over the next little while I'll be posting as I tear down and re-build this bike.